France's second largest city and most important seaport is Marseille. It was established over 2600 years ago and has prospered chiefly as a trading port through the ages. In the past it has suffered a rough reputation linked with racial tensions and organised crime, but now this is image is becoming outdated. Thanks to the rapid TGV rail-link, many Parisians come to treat this cosmopolitan city as a weekend retreat. It is generally now regarded as "branché" (i.e. trendy) and a far cry from "The French Connection".

On the southern side of the old port is a pedestrian zone with a lively mix of bars, cafés and restaurants. Also in this area is the Opéra , Marseilles oldest cultural institution built in 1924, and the national theatre, La Criée . Further south is a hill, the top of which is the highest point in the city.

Eastwards from the old port extends the city's main thoroughfare known as La Canebiere , a name linked with its roots in rope-making. In it's heyday it had a lively café culture but these days it is not very satisfying to walk along. Just off this street however, the area towards the Prefecture building that includes Rue Saint Ferréol , a pedestrianised shopping street, is worth a stroll.

A short boat ride from the old port can take you to a couple of small offshore islands southwest about a mile away. On one of them stands the Château d'If , a 16th century fortress used as a prison. This is the where Alexander Dumas' Count of Monte Cristo was imprisoned although in reality there is no record of anyone escaping. Many of the inmates either died there or went mad or both, lending this place a rather sinister reputation.

Although it is the capital of the local departement, Marseille cannot be seen as representative of the area. It is a city that stands out as an anomaly and whose frenetic pulse guarantees it to be loved by some and loathed by others.