THE MARCHES (Italy)

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Provinces: Ancona, Ascoli Piceno, Macerata, Pesaro, Urbino

An essentially mountainous and hilly region, facing the Adriatic Sea. The mountain area is rugged, with narrow valleys, deep gorges and numerous rushing, sometimes inaccessible streams. The coastline presents rolling hills as well as flat plains crossed by rivers.

The Marches (or 'the Italian Marches') is the lesser-known of the triumvirate of regions that comprise central Italy. The other two, Tuscany and Umbria , require no introduction (though we've helpfully compiled introductions for you elsewhere of course) but Marche is more of a mystery to foreign visitors.

You may know the Adriatic coastline, stretching from Pesaro in the north to San Benedetto in the south, with some superb beaches in between, but fewer visitors penetrate the hinterland of Marche .

There are a host of beach resorts, from Pesaro and Fano in the north to Grottammare, Pedaso and San Benedetto del Tronto in the south. They are as diverse as they are numerous.

There is the bustling, party atmosphere of Gabbice Mare, one of Marche's busiest destinations with more than 100 hotels. Or the elegant old town of Pesaro: a Renaissance town that just happens to have a fishing port and a seaside resort attached.

Marche boasts a fine mix of rustic fare and seafood . it does of course have a massively long coastline. So try brodetto (fish broth) or zuppa di pesce, a fish soup flavoured with saffron.

The region's signature dish is porchetta, where a roast suckling pig is either served whole, or is sliced into crispy bread rolls. There are the ever-popular (and expensive) truffles, and rabbit and lamb feature on the menu. Classic pastas include papardelle alla papara, a flat pasta with duck sauce.

Things to see and do:

The Frasassi Caves - In the heart of the Gola della Rossa-Frasassi national park, this series of limestone gorges conceal the caves, a huge complex with a 240 metre high central chamber at its heart. The national park is home to eagle owls, peregrine falcons and golden eagles.

Monte Conero - Sticking out, literally, from the smooth, sandy beaches that characterise the Marche coastline, Monte Conero is a limestone promontory rising 500 metres out of the sea. Also a protected natural habitat for rare flowers and birds . terrific views too.

Urbino - One of the many city states which rose during the Italian Renaissance, Urbino wrote the book on courtly behaviour during the 16th century. Ruled by Federico da Montefeltro, who brought Europe's greatest architects and artists to build his model city. Today it's an elegant, relaxed and very pleasant town, with good restaurants and fine museums and galleries.

San Leo - A defensive fortress, clinging impossibly to a peak in the north of Marche, has been a pull for tourists for centuries. Menacing, beautiful, stunning, it has evoked praise from Machiavelli and Dante, and proved impregnable to the invading Cesare Borgia.