JAMAICA (Caribbean)

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It is easy to wax lyrical about the island of Jamaica in the north of the Caribbean. The glorious glow of its sunsets, the unique and engaging ways of its people, the alluring white sandy beaches and lush green mountains, the sparkling waterfalls. All can inspire the poet in anyone.

The beauty of this island paradise has drawn visitors for centuries: first it was the wealthy few who were privileged to enjoy the unspoilt tropical delights of Jamaica. Today the northern and western coastlines of the island bristle with tourist resorts and 'all-inclusive' hotels, and natural attractions have been commercialised to cope with the crowds and make the most out of the tourists.

Somehow the commercialisation has not spoiled Jamaica, however. It still presents a magnificent kaleidoscope of colour and beauty that makes holidaymakers sad to leave, and vow to return.

The name Jamaica originates from the pre-colonial native inhabitants, the Arawak Indians, to whom 'Xaymaca' meant 'land of wood and water'. There is little left of the Indian culture: after being discovered by Columbus in 1494 Jamaica was ruled by the Spanish for 150 years, and then by the British for the next 300 years. Independence came in 1962 to the Jamaican people who are now a warm blend of different cultures and nationalities, though significantly African based because of the influence of the imported slaves, who endeavoured to keep their tribal traditions alive while being forced to labour on the island plantations.

There is, however, a little trouble in paradise: the Jamaican people on the whole are poor, and very reliant on tourism for their living. Some visitors object to being harassed by vendors, unlicensed taxi drivers, hair braiders and the like. Crime is also a problem. These minor irritations however should not keep anyone away from savouring the spirit of Jamaica, which is as rich as the lilt of the local patois and the rhythms of the reggae music for which the island is famous.

Jamaica provokes strong reactions. For some it is vibrant and compelling, for others it's relentless and too intense. People tend to love or hate it.

On the map, Jamaica looks like a turtle, surfacing to draw breath as it swims west to the Yucatan.It is certainly a fantastically beautiful place - one of the most scenic islands of the Caribbean.The rivers, rainforests and high mountains are magnificent and when the sun shines - which it does often - the sea is a surreal shade of blue.

Thanks to all the rivers and the rainfall, Jamaica is lush and green - as you travel around the countryside you will see swathes of banana and sugar-cane plantations and the small plots belonging to local farmers.And of course the shoreline has some classic beaches, mostly white sand, from the near-endless stretch at Negril in the west to the tiny, idyllic coves in the east.

Jamaica sounds fantastic. Reggae music is played everywhere, all day long (as are ska and dancehall, which were also invented here). Even if you don't usually like it, when you're actually in Jamaica it seems to belong - like a well-matched soundtrack.Touring through the lovely countryside with the car stereo tuned to Irie FM (105.5 and 107.7 FM) is a great feeling.

As a tourist you are extremely unlikely to come across any trouble, though you won't be able to avoid being hassled in the main tourist towns. You could avoid this by never stepping outside the confines of your hotel compound, but that would be to miss out on one of the most extraordinary countries in the Caribbean.

Beyond the coastal fringe of massive package hotels you will find plenty of unexpectedly refined and charming smaller hotels.