INDONESIA (Asia)

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Indonesia is the world's largest archipelago, comprising five main islands and a multitude of smaller archipelagos, with about 17,000 islands strung across the equator.

A rich history of kingdoms, conquests, colonialism, trade and natural disasters has bequeathed it with an exhilarating kaleidoscope of cultures and traditions, people, languages and religions, aspirations and problems, and the dramatic scenery of changing landscapes.

Unfortunately it is this very diversity of ethnic groups and religions that has put a country of such exotic natural resources to the test. Racial divides and fierce religious hostility, government corruption, uprisings, economic negligence and, more recently, terrorist attacks have been frequent blights on the Indonesian fabric of society. But it is also these diverse cultures that have given the country a splendid heritage of traditions and art, and for centuries it has been a magnet, constantly drawing thousands of people to its shores despite its turbulent nature.

Indonesia offers something for everyone. Sumatra has an untouched wilderness and a diversity of wildlife, highland tribes and unique architecture, wonderful resort-lined lakes and quaint hilltop towns. Java features steaming volcanoes, astonishing historical monuments, a sprawling capital city and traditional dance, music and art. The image of paradise is epitomised in Bali, an island of artistic people and elegant temples, stunning scenery, palm groves, beach resorts and diving. Further east, Komodo is the home to the world's largest lizard, the Komodo dragon.

It is a land of vigorous colour, of tensions and upheaval, but also of festivals and dancing, golden sunsets and friendly white toothy smiles.

For sheer size, scale and variety, Indonesia is pretty much unbeatable. The country is so enormous that nobody is really sure quite how big it is; there are between 13,000 and 17,000 islands. It's certainly the largest archipelago in the world, spreading over 5200km between the Asian mainland and Australia, all of it within the tropics and with huge areas of ocean separating the landmasses. Not surprisingly, Indonesia's ethnic, cultural and linguistic diversity is correspondingly great - the best estimate is of 500 languages and dialects spoken by around 200 million people.

The largely volcanic nature of the islands has created tall cloud-swept mountains swathed in the green of rice terraces or rainforest, dropping to blindingly bright beaches and vivid blue seas, the backdrop for Southeast Asia's biggest wilderness areas and wildlife sanctuaries. The ethnic mix of Indonesia is overwhelming: this is the world's largest Muslim country, but with a distinct local flavour, and there are also substantial populations of Christians, Hindus and animists, whose forms of worship, customs and lifestyles have been influencing each other for centuries.

Because Indonesia encompasses such a diversity of cultures, it can be very difficult to decide where to go. However, there is a well-worn overland travellers' route across the archipelago, which begins by taking a boat from Penang in Malaysia to Medan on Sumatra's northeast coast. From here the classic itinerary runs to the orang-utan sanctuary at Bukit Lawang, the nippy little hill resort of Berastagi, the chilled-out lakeside resorts of Danau Toba and the surfers' mecca of Pulau Nias . Further south, the area around Bukittinggi appeals because of its flamboyant Minangkabau architecture and dances. Many travellers then hurtle through the southern half of Sumatra in their headlong rush to Java , probably bypassing the exhaustingly overpopulated capital Jakarta , but perhaps pausing at the relaxed beach resort of Pangandaran in West Java. Next stop is always the ancient capital of Yogyakarta , a cultural centre which hosts daily performances of traditional dance and music and offers batik courses for curious travellers. Yogya also makes a good base for exploring the huge Borobodur (Buddhist) and Prambanan (Hindu) temples. Java's biggest natural attractions are its volcanoes: the Dieng plateau , with its coloured lakes and ancient Hindu temples and, most famously, Gunung Bromo , where most travellers brave a sunrise climb to the summit.