Travel Eye on Copenhagen (Denmark)

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Overview:

The waterside city of Copenhagen is packed with old-world fairytale charm alongside some of the world's most avante garde architecture. It is a vibrant, modern city with a long and fascinating history, having been the capital of Denmark for close on 600 years and home to the oldest resident monarchy in the world.

The biggest city in Scandinavia, Copenhagen occupies a pleasant and strategic spot on the Baltic east coast of Denmark's largest island, Zealand, its harbour overlooked by the world-famous statue of the 'Little Mermaid'.

One of the first impressions that strike visitors to this busy, dynamic capital is the cleanliness and orderliness that prevails in its narrow medieval cobbled central city streets and along the picturesque canals in Christianshavn. Most of the myriad attractions for visitors are situated within about one square mile (3 sq km) of flat terrain in the centre, making it easy to explore on foot (or bicycle, which is the vehicle of choice for locals).

Five streets in the heart of the city have been merged to provide the world's longest pedestrian mall, running between Rådhuspladsen and Kongens Nytorv, which are packed with historic gabled buildings, dynamic department stores, stunning shops, restaurants, pavement cafes, theatres, and world-class museums and galleries.

Despite the condensed city centre, Copenhagen is not short on green lungs: parks, like the ever-popular Tivoli Gardens, abound in this city, which prides itself on its strict anti-pollution laws and lack of glass and chrome skyscrapers.

The family-friendly city that spawned Hans Christian Andersen is, indeed, a modern fairy-tale: one of Europe's finest capitals that retains a provincial charm and sense of history along with its cutting-edge efficiency, offering its justifiably proud citizens an extremely high standard of living.

Locality:

Copenhagen is located in the extreme E of Denmark, on the E coast of its largest island, Zealand (Sjaelland). It is 100 mls SE of Arhus, 95 mls E of Odense, 30 mls S of Helsingor, 5 mls NW of the airport at Kastrup. Copenhagen occupies a flat coastal area along the Oresund strait. An inner harbour waterway flows through the SE part of the city, separating it from the island of Amager.

Entertainment/Facilities/Attractions/Things to do:

From backpackers to business visitors, Copenhagen is regarded as one of Scandinavia's more affordable cities. With its numerous historical sights, many cultural attractions and an underlying laid-back atmosphere, it has something to suit most tastes.

Accommodation here covers the full spectrum including budget options, a wealth of middlemarket hotels and a small but distinguished choice at the top end of the market. Most tourist hotels are clustered W of the main station, a slightly seedy though quite safe area. Another concentration lies near the attractive Nyhavn canal.

People do not associate Copenhagen with beach holidays but in summer there is a choice. Amager Strand lies close to the airport; Klampenborg and Charlottenlund about 4 mls N of the city. In the N of Zealand, long, sandy, quiet beaches abound.

Although prices are relatively high, shopping in Copenhagen is varied and appealing. The pedestrianised city-centre streets, particularly Stroget, are lined with designer stores and fashion outlets; Scandinavia's largest department store, numerous antique shops and specialist retailers can also be found here. Another busy thoroughfare is Vesterbrogade with a more affordable selection. Christianshavn district has a number of quirky and second-hand shops. Markets are held in Gammeltorv Square (mornings) and Israels Plads (Sat) with fruit, flowers, bric-a-brac and curios traded. Porcelain, crystal glassware, jewellery and knitwear are all worth looking out for. Denmark is also well known for its stylish home furnishings and kitchenware.

Daytime entertainment and activities are varied. There are many fine historic buildings including numerous old gabled houses, the elegant Town Hall and Round Tower; Tivoli Gardens (April to Sept), the famous amusement park; numerous museums and galleries including a museum of Erotica and the impressive National Museum; Little Mermaid statue; Christiansborg palace (seat of government); appealing Nyhavn waterfront; Christianshavn district and "free city" of Christiania; Rosenborg Castle; Royal Porcelain factory; Carlsberg brewery. Walking tours and boat cruises are a good way to sample the city's character. Leisure facilities include an indoor golf centre, reputedly the largest in the world.
Nightlife: vibrant and varied selection including lively bars, pubs and cafes, particularly in the city centre and Norrebro district. Many venues stage live music, ranging from jazz to large concerts of international pop groups; a number of free concerts are held in summer. Regarded as a party capital, it has several popular nightclubs and a thriving gay scene. The Royal Theatre stages opera and ballet productions while Tivoli Gardens hold classical music and theatrical performances. Cinema is popular and English-language films are frequently shown. Casino.

Eating out can be expensive, though there are plenty of relatively cheap sandwich bars, pizzerias and fast-food outlets. International and ethnic cuisine is well represented and there are countless small pubs and cafes. The city centre, Nyhavn waterfront and Tivoli Gardens are full of restaurants, though these can be pricey; Christiania is more affordable. Set lunchtime menus are usually easier on the pocket. Smorrebrod (open sandwiches), seafood (particularly herring), goulash and buffets are local favourites. Alcohol is quite expensive.

Although the city is a joy to explore on foot, its network of buses and S-trains is relatively efficient. Outlying areas are well served. Copenhagen Card covers travel for several days and includes free admission to many attractions. Cycling is a popular option as city is laced with cycle paths. Trains from Central Station serve numerous national and international destinations, including Sweden since the opening of Oresund Bridge to Malmo. A hydrofoil also serves Malmo and regular ferries connect several Baltic cities. Taxis can be hailed in the street but are quite pricey.

Local excursions consist of half day: pretty fishing village of Dragor; Bakken amusement park; beach and aquarium in Charlottenlund; Louisiana Museum of Modern Art. Full day: beaches in N of Zealand, such as Hellebaek and Hornbaek; Helsingor and its castle; former capital of Roskilde; parks, forests and lakes of Zealand; Malmo in Sweden via impressive Oresund road and rail bridge. Two days: other islands including Bornholm, Lolland and Falster; Malmo and S Sweden.