Travel Eye on Cascais (Portugal)

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Overview

Cascais was once just a small picturesque fishing village, Cascais (pronounced 'Kesh-kaysh'), 19 miles (30km) west of Lisbon has exploded into one of the most bustling, sophisticated resorts on the Portuguese "Riviera". It retains its laid-back atmosphere, however, and the local fishermen still ply their trade and auction their catch on the main square. The town now hosts a plethora of elegant shops, bars and eateries set around colourful cobblestoned walkways, to cater for the holidaymakers, and besides the lovely local beaches there are some sightseeing opportunities.

The 16th century church has carved and gilded woodwork and some famous paintings; the Cascais Amunicipal Museum housed in a palace has some interesting exhibits and illuminated manuscripts; the Sea Museum contains everything maritime from model boats to fishermen's boots; and the 16th century Fort of Cascais offers a beautiful view and an open-air artillery museum. About two miles (three km) out of town is a strange rock formation known as the Mouth of Hell, which is worth a look en route to the lovely beach of Guincho, which is a favourite with surfers.

The resort offers a middlemarket choice attracting mature couples, though younger visitors will enjoy the lively local atmosphere. Many residents of Lisbon at weekends, and a mix of mainly European visitors throughout the year. Fairly large ex-pat community. Popular with golfers, water-sports enthusiasts and those who enjoy a traditional beach holiday with some local flavour. A little hilly in parts, which may not suit those with walking difficulties.

The accommodation here is predominantly 3- and 4-star hotels dotted around the resort. There is a fair amount of seafront accommodation, and a few budget pensions and character hotels in the town. A growing number of private apartments and self-catering flats in the surrounding hills and along the developing coast to the west. It is relatively expensive in peak season, though good deals and far wider availability through the winter.

Locality:

Cascais is one third of the way up Portugal's W (Atlantic) coast. (it is 14 mls W of Lisbon; 8 mls S of Sintra; 2 mls W of Estoril. 20 mls W of Lisbon International Airport). It is a S-facing resort in the sheltered Cascais Bay, on the rugged Estoril coast. The narrow belt of flat coastal land rises into the surrounding residential foothills of the partially forested Sintra Mountains (Serra de Sintra)

Entertainment/Activities/Things To Do:

Shopping in the town centre is an enjoyable pastime, exploring the Rua da Raita pedestrianised street which offers numerous small shops selling local wares, including hand-embroidered linen and hand-painted tiles and other ceramics. Along the beachfront are the ubiquitous open-fronted stores and kiosks selling holiday requisites like buckets and spades, sunglasses and sunscreen. For local colour the place to be is on the Rua Mercado on Wednesdays or Saturday morning when the farmer's market is held, selling fresh produce and plenty of other goods besides. Glitzy shopping is at the huge Shopping Cascais Centre, out of town on the highway to Sintra, where there are two floors with hundreds of stores dealing mainly in clothing, accessories, furniture and household goods.

Cascais is renowned for its quality dining, drawing gourmets from Lisbon and nearby Estoril. The main restaurant strip of Cascais is the walk-through Rua Frederico Arouca, and the lively Largo Luis de Camoes. Here you will find a wide choice of eateries, most with outside areas, from cafes to traditional taverns, serving both local fare and international cuisine. Fish restaurants abound; be warned it is said that one should not eat fish in Portugal on Mondays, because fishermen do not go to sea on Sundays! Specialities of the Estoril coast are fish stew, sole, dried codfish, lobster and crab. Spicy chicken dishes are also popular. Enjoy the reasonably priced good local wines.

Cascais has a vibrant nightlife, offering everything from traditional Fado to wild dance clubs. Largo Luiz de Camoes Square is the hub of the hotspots, with a collection of bars and clubs. Most popular and lively of the clubs, Coconuts, is however to the west of the town on the seafront, with a bar and dancefloor.

The focus of daytime activity for visitors are the local beaches, but those who want a break from sand and sun can tour some worthy local sights, like the Church of Our Lady of the Assumption, which features paintings by 17th Century female artist Josefa de Obidos. There are a couple of museums, displaying maritime relics and items depicting the history of Cascais. The Parque do Marechal Carmona is also worth a visit, offering shady picnic spots and a small zoo. Most visitors take an excursion to the Boca do Inferno, a scenic spot where waves tumble into a hole in the cliff.