Travel Eye on Calella De Palafrugell (Costa Brava, Spain)

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Overview:

Calella De Palafrugell is a relaxed, attractive, low-rise former fishing village with a prosperous feel, packed in summer with lots of Spanish families and independent car-driving visitors. Measuring around 2 mls by 1 ml, the town stretches from the rocky headland of Punta de la Torre in the E to the El Golfet area in the SW. It is built on a gentle slope, so the visitor's first impression is of an attractive jumble of red-tiled roofs with a simple white church tower jutting up from the old centre. The buildings are mostly traditional, white or pastel coloured and well maintained, with more modern developments up the hillside, camouflaged by thick pine trees. The main road runs round the resort, with most accommodation S of it, closer to the sea or dotted on the hillside. The El Golfet area comprises low-rise apartments and has only 1 bar/restaurant and a supermarket. It can get windy in this area, with the Tramontana wind from the N and Garbi from SW.

Locality:

Calella De Palafrugell is located in NE Spain, on the Mediterranean coast, midway along the Costa Brava. It is 2½ mls from the inland town of Palafrugell, 79 mls NE of Barcelona, 88 mls NE of Barcelona's airport, 26 mls E of Gerona and 31 mls E of Gerona's airport. Calella De Palafrugell is set on a sloping site above a wide bay consisting of a series of rocky inlets backed by pine-clad hills. Formigues Islands are visible off the coast.

The area is popular with mature visitors of all nationalities seeking a low-key holiday and is especially popular with Spanish day-trippers. It is also popular with some younger families, though there's nothing specifically in the resort for children; pre-teens will enjoy the plentiful shallow rock pools. Not enough going on for teenagers and young groups. The area may not suit visitors with mobility problems, as its position on a gentle slope means lots of up and downhill walking.

Calella De Palafrugell does boast a series of coarse sand beaches, the largest being the sloping 200-yd option at El Canadell, which is backed by shrubs and trees, and reached via steps from a promenade lined with old summer houses. It has rocky outcrops and large rocks in the water, and is popular with local families and youngsters. There are a couple of bars; 1 restaurant. Kayak hire. The 150-yd Port Bo Beach, consisting of 3 narrow sections separated by rocks, is packed full of boats on the sand and backed by a short promenade lined with bars and restaurants. There are 3 more small, pebbly, sloping beaches, all reached via steep steps and flanked by rocks. Just over 1 ml from the centre and best reached by car or coastal path is the curved, pebbly, 75-yd El Golfet Beach, down steep steps. In a dramatic setting, backed by sheer pine-topped cliffs and flanked by rock formations. The area also offers a dive centre and scuba diving is an option and a popular activity.

The accommodation here is mainly low-rise 3-star hotels spread around resort. There are plenty of private apartments rented out through agencies and 2 large campsites at rear.

Activities and entertainment consist of the beaches, diving excursions; coastal path to Llafranc or El Golfet; botanical Gardens and Castle of Cap Roig (by car); minigolf. Cantada d'Havaneras (early July), a large festival featuring Cuban sea songs and dances. Costa Brava Jazz Festival in Cap Roig (July and Aug). By night there are a number of bars and restaurants along the waterfront; disco and jazz club on the road to Palafrugell.

Excursions consist of the San Sebastian Mountain and lighthouse for views (by car). Picturesque medieval village of Pals (by car). Trips to small neighbouring resorts of Tamariu and Llafranc. Gerona. Farther afield: tours of Barcelona, Costa Brava, flamenco and dinner tour, Dali Museum at Figueras.