Travel Eye on Forte Dei Marmi (Italy)

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Overview:

Forte De Marmi is a quiet, genteel but chic resort with a compact commercial centre surrounded by leafy tree-lined suburbs of large private mansions and modest hotels stretching 3¼ mls along the coast. Few buildings breach the tree canopy maintaining a pleasant shady atmosphere in all but the very heart of the town which is pedestrianised during weekends and evenings. The lack of parking space makes cycling popular. Since the war tourism has become the mainstay of the local economy thanks to an appealing beach and picturesque mountains behind the town. Originally used for loading ships with local marble, the quay is now the promenade pier. Though commercial shipping has moved elsewhere there are still plenty of marble quarries just inland. Artists and sculptors have long favoured the town and the local galleries, along with designer boutiques, provide a suitable backdrop to the stylish and well-heeled souls who populate the streets during summer; out of season, things become very quiet.

Locality:

Forte De Marmi is situated on Italy's NW coast, 220 mls NW of Rome, 75 mls SE of Genoa, 63 mls W of Florence, 112 mls NW of Siena. The area is served by Pisa's Galileo Galilei international airport 22 mls SE. Forte De Marmi is the northernmost of the four resorts comprising Tuscany's Versilian Riviera. On a flat coastal plain some 2 miles wide backed by the Apuan Alps rising sharply to over 6,000 feet. Bounded to the N by the small Cinquale River, to the S by the adjacent town of Marina di Pietrasanta. Viareggio lies 7½ miles SE.

Entertainment/Facilities/Attractions/Things to do:

Forte De Marmi is principally a domestic resort favoured by well-to-do Italian couples and some families with quiet, older children. The majority of foreign tourist are German but it is also popular with the well-heeled from all over Europe. There are plenty of smallish mid-range hotels but surprisingly few luxury ones ? Italy's well-to-do families preferring their own holiday homes. Many hotels are converted and extended Edwardian mansions.

A wide pale-grey swathe of sand stretches the entire length of the resort. Most of the beach is leased to private bathing establishments providing row after row of formally arranged sun shades, deck chairs and loungers; some also have showers, bars and restaurants. A variety of tiny changing huts line the whole back edge. The daily charge for use of these facilities is not insignificant ? especially in high season. Relatively modest public beaches exist at each end of the resort.

Normal small town shops are supplemented by a good range of designer boutiques selling high fashion, quality shoes, handbags and knitwear. Several art galleries offer work by local artists. An evening market operates on Wednesdays.

Daytime activities tend to include: quiet beach life and strolling along the shoreline are the main activities with limited water sports. Tennis in resort and a golf course 4 miles away. Hillwalking.
Nightlife: promenading till the early hours, window shopping and people-watching in pavement cafes. A couple of unsophisticated nightclubs. A small children's fairground, minicars and pony carts operate around Piazza Marconi.

The majority of restaurants are in hotels with relatively few independent establishments. Pizza and pasta snack meals are widely available in cafe bars but many specialise in ice cream, coffee, wine or beer.

Local and regional buses operate along the coast road but no round-town service. Local trains from Querceta 2 miles inland to the mainline station at Viareggio.

Local excursions include trips to: Pisa and Lucca; Portofino fishing village and crafts; Chianti country; Carrara town, mountains, marble quarry and workshops. Whole-day trips to: Florence; Siena and San Gimignano; Vinci ? home of Leonardo; Elba scenic island and coastline; guided hillwalks.